Instructions for assembling The Northern Lights Cathedral Hive Un-assembled Kit.
The Kit comes with detailed schematic plans for putting it together.
The Gluing Board Jig
Parts and tools needed to assemble the jig for the
The only part to make is the The Gluing Board Jig. It is not part of The Cathedral Hive Un-assembled Kit
Purpose:To hold the 3 Side Panels boards comprising each of the hive halves at an exact angel while the glue dries
Note: Making the jig for the original Cathedral Hive kit is the same process shown here but with slightly different measurements. So if you have made a jig previously for the original Cathedral Hive it has to be modified.
The most important part is a really square 3/4 inch piece of plywood.
* Flat board: 3/4" plywood, particle or melamine board
Size: 18-1/4” wide x 30” long x ¾’ thick
NOTE: The 18-1/4” width needs to be exact to achieve the correct angle for the sides when held in place while glue dries.
NOTE: If you have built the original Cathedral Hive Kit, the jig is 18-1/2" wide you will need to add 1/16" spacer to each side of the jig to accommodate for making the Northern Lights Kit
* 2 Side Rails Size: 2x4 x 28” length (screw to the sides of jig board)
* 2 underneath support boards Size: 2x4 x 28” length
* 2 Middle Supports Size: 2x4 x 7-1/8" length
* 4 Ratchet Straps NOTE: non-ratcheting rafting straps won’t provide enough pull
* Long Wood or Cardboard Strips Size: 30” long - These create a uniform pressure on the joint when the straps are applied
* Wood Glue – Tight Bond III, Ultimate – Best waterproof and dries slowly
Making the Gluing Board Jig
First, make notch cutouts on the 2x4 Side Rails
The 'Rails' or side pieces of the jig. Notches cut out to accommodate for the Northern Lights Hive Center and End Braces so the braces can be drilled on after the sides are gluded together. The notches are 1 1/2" wide, the width of the braces.
Example of sides sitting in jig: The notched cut outs on the end of the jig rails are for the Braces to sit down flush with the upside down hive sides and front.
Making the jig. Detail underneath of how the gluing jig is put together. A 2x4 is screwed into 3/4 inch plywood
Making the jig. Another detail of how the gluing jig is put together
Add the 2 middle supports, 2x4s, 7-1/8" length/tall
((((need placement of middle support braces))))
Now you have your jig made, lets glue the hive sides in the jig.
Side Panels Upper Section (E) of the Cathedral Northern Lights Hive
Assembling and Gluing
Get the three Side Panels (E) into position. Put the middle side on top of the middle jig supports while positioning the other 2 sides leaning into the top board.
Positioning the top piece and aligning all three (3) Side Panels (E)
Notice the notch in the jig that will allow space for the braces to be fitted while the Side Panels (E) are still in the gluing jig.
Getting the ends flush for a pre-gluing test. Check that the ends of all three Side Panels (E) are flush. They can be sanded down later if they are a little off.
Now go for a dry run and time the assembly. Get the clamping straps in place in 9 min, before the glue dries. Keep practicing until you can get below the time frame.
All straps are in place being sure that no strap will be blocking the notched out area on the rail where the braces will be located.
Here is a closeup of where the jig rail is notched for the Braces (K) and (L).
You may have to use some force to get the Side Panels (E) to conform
It takes some forcing to get the edges to align. Have a helper align the edges while you tighten the clamps.
Using force. It might be necessary to over correct the alignment and let the tightening of the straps to force the joints to comply!
We use a container to put the glue into so we can quickly get glue on a brush. Painters tape is used to put on just under the straps to keep the glue off them.
OK set your timer!
Put the straps on and tighten them just barely snug. You want to have enough play to align the edges and ends (( )))
Find the nicest, smoothest side of the Hive End (G) board for the outside of your hive.
Then on the back side find your center line and mark your center line on the Hive End panel. (G)
The Cutting Pattern Template from the Schematic
Cut the template on the dotted line where it says 'cut line'. It is helpful to cut a notch on the center line of the template so you can see accurately the center line on your Hive End (G).
You can also cut a notch on the top of the template pattern to help align the pattern on the Hive End (G)
Align the long edge of the template to the long edge of the Hive End (G).
Center the lines and tape pattern template on the Hive End (G)
On the inside side of the Hive End (G), drill a pilot hole in each of the indicated drilling spots on the pattern
Now flip the Hive End (G) to the side that is the outside of the hive and counter sink
Use your Braces (K) and (L) to align your Hive End (G) so it is centered
Then securely hold while you trace around the Hive End (G) to mark where you will glue and screw the Hive End (G). The pencil line will allow you to easily align the Hive End (G) once you put on the glue
Apply a ribbon of glue over the screw holes and place it on the Side Panels (E). Screw on the Hive End (G) using 1 1/2" screws
Wipe off excess glue
Clamp the Hive End (G) in place using your pencil line to align accurately
The Hive Ends (G) clamped in place
Now repeat these exact steps for the other Hive End (G)
Gluing and Screwing the Braces
Make your center Brace (L) equal distance to side Braces (L)
We made blocks of wood for spacers so that when we glue the center Braces (L) they will not slide around on the slippery glue.
Apply glue to the assembled Hive Body and the Braces (K) and (L)
Put glue on 2 sides of the Braces (K) and (L), the side that goes against the assembled Hive Body and the side that goes against the Hive End (G) panel.
Pilot and drill holes, using 2' screws, three (3) per sides.
Then use two (1) 1 1/2" screw for Side Brace to the end of the Top Brace
Move to the back of the hive and do the other end, glue and screw end Braces (K) and (L)
Glue middle Braces (K) and (L)
Screw middle Braces (K) and (L)
Now is the time to put the sander in to round over edges, (beautifying ) before we attach the Side Roof Panels (W).
Sand down Hive Ends (G) so they are flush with Braces (K) and (L)
Sanding routed vent on Hive Ends (G)
Sanding the routed vent on Hive Ends (G)
Sanding (round over) the routed vent on Hive Ends (G)
Attaching the Side Roof Panels (W)
Side Roof Panels (W).
Side Roof Panels (W).
Side Roof Panels (W).
Side Roof Panels (W).
Now we are ready to put together the Lower Section
First decide which side you want the window on, you will have to think upside down.
(? wording goofed up)
Now that you know where your Entrance Hive End goes, where your Landing Board goes determines where you window is.
Set the window and opposite side in the jig, then the top/middle side.
Strap the Bottom Section in place
Now put the Bottom Section Braces in place
Entrance Brace LL
The Landing Board Bottom piece T and the Entrance Braces LL
Another look at the Entrance Braces and the Landing Board Bottom piece
Use a 2" screw to screw in the Landing Board to the Entrance Braces
The Lower Section, the back of the hive Braces L and K
Notice how the Landing Board Brace is positioned flush with the Entrance Braces against the hive sides and the Landing Board is protruding out to give the bees a place to land.
Also observe how the Landing Board Brace is clamped in place.
Make sure you wipe off the glue on the underside of this brace, because we’ll be adding another final redwood Top Landing Board (TT) on top of this Landing Board Brace (T).
The Landing Board Extension - Top piece (TT)
The Hive End - Entrance (J)
Hive Back Lower Section (H) pilot holes ready to put in alignment screws and glue
Use the lighter gray, 6 3/4" pattern for the Hive Front Lower Section (J)
Back Hive End (H) -Find the center of the board, measuring the middle
Back Hive End pilot holes ready to put in alignment screws and glue
Back Hive End gluing the end
Glue both surfaces
Clamp Hive End board in place and screw. Wipe excess glue from Landing Board Brace
Landing Board Top - reclaimed redwood, (actually reclaimed from my grandma's back porch) should fit snug and may have to be sanded a bit to fit.
Screw in from bottom With 2 “ screws, three screws should do it.
((((((Add images of making the Roof)))))
We have set out everything we need. Notice I said “we” it is really handy to have a helper for the gluing and clamping. Tight Bond III Ultimate is amazing and using this brand gives you a full 9 min until the glue starts to set up.
Check that braces (L) and (K) are are fitting nicely. Sand if necessary
We then pilot holes and put in the screws. Notice we planned ahead and made sure we didn’t put clamps over our key screwing locations. Use a long 2 1/2 inch screw for screwing side braces into the ends of the center braces.
Align drilling pattern with Hive End and secure with painters tape.
Keep drill perpendicular to hive!
Set Hive End in position making sure the 22” Hive End is aligned perfectly with Braces.
Partly screw in guide screws into Hive Body so when you glue, you will be able to feel that all is aligned well.
If you don’t clamp your paper pattern, you can easily remove the pattern to screw.
Clamp Hive End in place while piloting holes.
Use a hand planer or sand the ends of the sides and braces flat so that the Front and Back Hive Ends will sit flat
You can put glue on the hive body first then...
Glue up the Hive End.
Screw into place! 9 min! A piece of cake!
Now glue the other end.
You may need to use clamps to bend or flatten the wood to the hive before screwing. This will make the Hive End fit very snug.
Congratulations! There you have it! A fully assembled Norther Lights Cathedral Hive!